Quebec

Winterlude: A Canadian Rite of Passage
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Winterlude: A Canadian Rite of Passage

The last trip I took before the COVID-19 pandemic grounded my travel plans for the next 21 months… was to Ottawa for a little family reunion with my brother and his family. At the time he was living in Waterloo, Ontario and neither of us had ever visited Canada’s capital… so we decided to make the most of their proximity and I flew out to join them for the Family Day long weekend.

Having grown up on the West Coast, I’m not acclimatized to the typical Canadian winters that the rest of the country experiences but I did my best to dress for the -15°C temperatures and was determined to tough it out. And to my delight I held up rather well for our outdoor activities.

The Highlights

Skating on the Rideau Canal

We really weren’t sure if the weather would be cold enough (I can’t believe I’m even saying that) to be able to skate on the Rideau Canal but we were super lucky and had ideal conditions to check off this iconic Canadian activity. My brother is actually a very good skater from his childhood hockey days and it was really fun to get back on the ice with him. I ended up pushing my niece for most of the time in her little sled which I low-key loved because it definitely kept me balanced when those uneven bumps came out of nowhere. We also made sure to grab a famous Beaver Tail and Hot Apple Cider to enjoy from one of the convenient snack huts on the ice.

Visiting Parliament

I really wasn’t expecting to enjoy visiting parliament as much as I did. The one hour tour was actually a really interesting peak inside our government. I especially enjoyed getting to visit the interim House of Commons that has been constructed inside the courtyard at the centre of the West Block, which even has a glass roof sealing it off from the outside but still allowing lots of natural light. Architecturally, it was really unique and interesting and I’ve read that it’s quite eco-friendly too.

Crossing the Border to Gatineau

Ottawa is actually just across the river/bridge from Quebec, and when combined with neighbouring Gatineau, form the National Capital Region. We took advantage of the beautiful sunny day to visit the Snowflake Kingdom at Jacques-Cartier Park and enjoy the family friendly activities like snow tubing and interactive ice sculptures. This was definitely the trip highlight for my niece, if her squeals could tell the story.

Looking back…

I didn’t realize it at the time, but after this trip I wouldn’t get to see my family for a year and a half due to pandemic travel restrictions. And while that time of separation was heartbreaking, I was so grateful that I had made the extra effort to visit them in Ontario one last time before they moved back to BC. Among many lessons the pandemic has taught me, one that always rises to the top is to make the most of every opportunity. You never know when your time with loved ones will be cut short or taken away and I will never regret making these memories.

So, thanks Ottawa, I’ll always remember you.

Montreal Memoire: 3 Days in Canada’s Cultural Capital
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Montreal Memoire: 3 Days in Canada’s Cultural Capital

For someone who has visited over 300 cities across 6 continents, I’ve sadly seen very little of my own country by comparison. When the Canadian dollar started to tank towards the end of last year, I decided that 2016 would be the year of Canada. I called up my friend Katie in Toronto and organized a long weekend in Montreal, a city I’ve wanted to visit for years. It would be the first time in Quebec for us both. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect but as it turns out, I couldn’t have asked for a better weekend.

I took a red-eye flight, arriving in Montreal early Saturday morning. After waking Katie up in our adorable Airbnb apartment and enjoying a wake-up coffee on our lovely terrace, we set off to to explore.

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Feeling fresh on no sleep – Take that jet lag!

Lachine Canal

We didn’t intentionally go looking for the canal but somehow I’m always drawn to the water. When we stumbled across the Lachine Canal we decided to take advantage of the warm weather and stroll along the path to the Old Port. Along the way we discovered that the park is also a National Historic Site and the third most beautiful urban circuit in the world as ranked by Time magazine in 2009.

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Vieux Port

After walking the canal we ended up in the Old Port which is by far the most touristy part of Montreal. We strolled the cobblestone streets, visited the stunning Notre Dame cathedral, and spontaneously bought tickets to the latest Cirque du Soleil show, Luzia. We simply couldn’t pass the opportunity to see Cirque in the place where it originated. It was a fantastic Mexican inspired production that wowed me even as a long-time fan. We even had the privilege of running into several of the star performers later the next day when they were casually doing back flips in the street. When in Montreal…

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I’ve already written about all the delicious food that we ate in Montreal but my favourite location was certainly Chez Suzette. We had a lovely spot in the window where we could enjoy our crepes and some epic people watching. Basically the perfect setting for our 10 year friendaversary celebration!

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Mont Royal

On Day 2 my main objective was to visit the Mont Royal park, which I didn’t realize is actually a large volcanic hill/small mountain. I heard that there was a great viewpoint, which should have tipped me off that we would have a climb ahead of us to reach the Chalet. It was well worth the effort for the views and subsequent relaxing in the park.

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Parc Jean Drapeau

The rest of our day was a bit haphazard. We had a plan to check out the first day of the Piknic Électronik, an EDM festival that happens every Sunday throughout the summer at Parc Jean Drapeau. However, by the time we got there, the line to buy tickets was so long that we figured we wouldn’t make it inside by closing. So, instead we opted to try out the much touted bike share and get ourselves some Bixis. We rode around the park and then ultimately decided to find our way back to the Old Port. A lot easier said than done considering the lack of bike lanes and the steep incline to the bridge. We made it across though and were rewarded again with some lovely views of the city.

Along the way we made friends with Samantha from LA and the three of us spent the rest of the evening riding through the city, searching for night life, and making friends with locals. It was one of those spontaneous nights that made me feel fully alive, like this is what it means to be young and adventurous and free.

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We ended our trip on Monday with a relaxing walk through our neighbourhood to a local Polish bakery.

Montreal is completely unique to any city I’ve ever been before. The history and language made it feel slightly European, while still maintaining a distinctly Canadian feel. The people were so friendly and the city was notably vibrant and energetic.

At the end of any trip, I’m always wishing for at least one more day. But, even though I didn’t scratch every item off my wish-list, I had a truly memorable starter weekend in Montreal. I have a feeling that I’ll be back. Until next time… À bientôt Montréal! 

 

The Best Food I ate in Montreal
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The Best Food I ate in Montreal

One weekend in Montreal was in no way enough time to experience all of the culinary delicacies and amazing restaurants in this city. But… I did the best that I could and these are some of the dishes that topped my list.

Caution: Photos below may induce hunger.

Poutine: La Banquise and Les Folies

When I mentioned to friends in conversation that I was planning a trip to Montreal, the first thing they recommended was poutine. And La Banquise came up again and again as the go-to spot. This place has been creating legendary poutine creations since the 1980’s and offers no less than 30 different types. We struggled to decide but eventually opted to share two: (1) La Reggae: ground beef, guacamole, diced tomatoes & hot peppers and (2) L’Astérix: smoked meat, mushrooms, sour cream & pepper sauce (both pictured above left).

 

And no weekend getaway would be complete without brunch so in true Montreal form, I ordered La Voisine de Poutine at Les Folies, basically breakfast poutine. Mais oui!

 

Crêpes: Chez Suzette

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Since Montreal is in the French speaking part of Canada, it is also a great place to try French-inspired cuisine. I indulged my sweet tooth with La Rougemont, which is a sweet crêpe with apples, cinnamon, ice cream, and almonds served with 100% pure Quebec maple sirop. This may have been my dinner and I’m not mad about it.

Avo Yo Toast: Buck 15 Espresso Bar

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 I’m pretty sure that the Avocado Toast craze is not a “Montreal thing” but I was plenty delighted to see it on the menu at Buck 15. This unassuming coffee shop had a beautifully curated breakfast menu that made me want to return every day just so I could try them all.

Bagels: Fairmount 

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I didn’t know this before I visited Montreal, but apparently the city has its own critically acclaimed style. In contrast to the New York-style bagel, the Montreal bagel is smaller, thinner, sweeter and denser, with a larger hole, and is always baked in a wood-fired oven. I was under strict orders to head to Fairmount, which claims to have the best bagels in the world. I don’t know that I’ve sampled enough bagels in my life to have a firm opinion but I definitely liked what I tasted. I recommend the Chocolate Chip and the Sesame Seed.

 

On this trip we also enjoyed Sangria, Smoked Meat sandwiches, and delicious French pastries. I can’t wait to return so that I can add to my list – what do you recommend?